Monday 19 August — Discoveries
I discovered a Telegram group for young anthropologists.
I rushed to write my article about the clowns from my master's thesis.
Tuesday 20 August — Intensive writing
Writing the article in a rush all day. Horrible.
Wednesday 21 August — Crossing to China
What can I observe systematically on the construction site?
Reading Bernard Hours - 2023 and Sylvaine Conord - 2000.
Crossing the border by boat (about two hours in total, customs time included).
I rested on the banks of the Black Dragon / Amur River. People took photos of me and with me. The only thing I could say was "I am French" in Chinese with bad intonation.
An old man came out of the water. He had swum with the current.
I took a taxi to the hotel. Prices are much higher than in Russia, and I have my own room. Not ideal to be alone. I will have to find another way of living.
I went to a barbecue restaurant. It was excellent. Photos were taken of me.
Thursday 22 August — Discovering the city
I walked around the city, trying to familiarise myself with its shapes and rhythms, to feel it. I don't know how to say it... Just receiving the information the city gives to its pedestrians, observing what people do or don't do. I am probably doing something that this guy talks about and tries to teach his students in this article, I suppose. Taking notes, formulating questions, and setting mini-goals like side quests (how to rent a self-service bike? What do they sell in this shop? What is that guy doing? Oh, a thing I don't understand, what is it? Oh, a thing that could probably be a lead for my research topic. What clothes do they wear for this weather, how do they move around the city, what are those noises, those smells, what do they eat and drink, do they smoke, and where, where are the homeless, do people cross on red, how do people pay, how do pedestrians look at each other, etc...)
Stop at another barbecue restaurant. A young woman asked for my order in English. Photos were taken.
Porn sites are blocked. YouTube blocked. Instagram blocked. And if not blocked, European websites are slow or refuse access.
Friday 23 August — Working at the hotel
I spent the day at the hotel, working on the computer. Organising the bibliography, transferring photos, writing.
If humans produce society to live, how do Russians and Chinese produce their friendship, their collaboration, their cohabitation, their relations, around the border? And on a national and global scale?
Saturday 24 August — Druzhba event
Today I went to Qiqihar by train and attended the "Druzhba" event: Russians swim to the Chinese banks, and vice versa.
Druzhba event (on the Chinese side): the Russians arrive, swimming. They receive medals and flowers. The Chinese watch them. Meanwhile, the Chinese take a lot of photos with me (they probably think they are posing with a Russian). Speeches are given in front of a large billboard (turned towards Russia, the Chinese spectators cannot see it). Images are produced. The Russians' path to their bus is under police surveillance. One has the impression that the event logistically prevents the mixing of swimmers and spectators. For security reasons? For efficiency? Probably. But it could also block moments of interaction, like taking photos shoulder to shoulder as I was asked, exchanging a few words, expressing something, social interactions in general (paradoxically with the intention of the event).
I approached the cable car construction site. They have barracks where workers seem to live.
Bus station. Food. Heihe station. I slept at Beian station while waiting for the next train. Train to Qiqihar.
Sunday 25 August — Arrival in Qiqihar
I met Van Bo at the station exit. We went to the police station to report my presence. We cooked with his uncle at his home after shopping at the supermarket. Nap. Then I was initiated into pinyin, we watched a film, and played a new video game called Wukong: Black Myth.
"Druzhba" event — 24 August 2024 — 50°14'59.9"N 127°31'38.0"E